Tuesday, March 29

Tuesday, March 29

We departed Cochin for Thrissur this morning. Heather had set the intention to visit a local village prior to arriving the Ernakulum train station. She was to coordinate this visit with a couple of rickshaw drivers. Before leaving Oy's La home stay I knew this could be problematic as the rickshaw drivers English isn't always the best, but certainly better than my Malayalam or Hindi. We set out with loaded backpacks into the morning sun and heat. We quickly flagged down two rickshaw drivers. The dialog began to explain to these two gentlemen that we wanted to go to a local village where there would be no Westerners and we were not interested in doing any shopping. We were looking for a similar experience as the one we had at Varkala. So understandings agreed upon off we went. The first stop was at a local shop probably belonging to this drivers cousin. We said no shopping needed and off we went again. This was my fourth visit to Cochin so I had travelled the local roads a few times, so when he made the left turn towards a bridge I knew we were headed in the direction of train station. We pulled off to the side of the road for one more attempt to explain what we were in search of. I think at this point they understood us but at this point we decided to just head to the train station.

The train ride from Ernakulum to Thrissur was the smoothest yet. We found seating together and the train got us Thrissur on time.

For the past month, Heather had been coordinating activities for our return visit to Thrissur with a Mr. C. A. Menon. C.A. was born in Indonesia but moved to India when he was five. He arrived while we were at lunch and said we must depart immediately as he had a number of activities planned. Little did we know but this evening would turn out to be the absolute best experience yet.

A very comfortable air conditioned seven passenger van provided our transportation needs for the evening. A brief stop to his house so he could pick up medication for a small stroke he had on the 18th of March. He said he had some difficulty in talking but otherwise he was fine. His English was excellent but we did have trouble with has accent at times. Off we went to a festival with three elephants.

We arrived just minutes before the musical entourage and the elephants. I have a twenty minute video of the event. It is simply amazing. There were thirty or so musicians walking just ahead of the elephants. We could hear the drums counting cadence in the distance as the procession advanced towards us. What a spectacle as the turned the corner. Thirty bare chested Indian men all with while lungi's wrapped around them carrying various types of drums, tablas, cymbals, and curved trumpets being followed by three huge Indian elephants. Each elephant had their foreheads all beautifully decorated and each elephant carried three men. One commanded the elephant, one held these white round feather-looking yak-hair decorations in each hand and the last held a staff with a large parasol on top. The entire procession stopped directly in front of us and proceeded to play some deafening but powerfully beautiful music. Drums and tablas pounding, trumpets blaring, cymbals clanging all in perfect rhythm. At various times during the music the men on the elephants would stand up and perform with the white round feathery decorations. It was again simply amazing. With a prompt from C.A. off we went.

The next stop was to the second richest temple in India. It is a pilgrimage site for Hindus. The temple is located in Guruvaya and is a good hours drive from Thrissur. We couldn't go inside the temple but according to C.A., if we tell someone we've been to Guruvaya they would be impressed. C.A. left us to be entertained at an auditorium adjacent to the temple while he went to pray. We watched three beautiful ladies dance in traditional Indian costumes and their faces beautifully made up in traditional make up and nose rings on both sides of their nose. We were able to go back stage and take a couple of pictures. Awesome.

We arrived at our next stop around 9 pm and it will no doubt be the pinnacle of the trip. If you've been following my travels you know I've had some amazing experiences but what I am about to tell you will simply astound you.

There is a small clan of families that perform a snake dance ritual. There are no snakes at this ritual. These families meet from time to time at various locations and perform this ritual. They all live and eat together and have no sex during this ritual time. We were the first Westerners ever to witness this ritual in this village and I was the first to ever video it. Think about that for a second. There was some discussion at first over whether I could video the ritual but I was approached by two men who basically said have fun and record away. I was later asked if I would be so kind to provide them a copy. Here I am recording their sacred ritual and they were so humble in asking me for a copy. So typical of the very gracious Indian people.

There was a large cube like frame in the center of a small courtyard. It was open on all four sides as well as the top. All parts of the frame were about four feet in length. It was like on open air temple or alter. Hanging from all four sides were long strands of white flowers and other hand made white origami type decorations. Inside the frame on the ground at the center was an oil lamp. From that lamp there were other eight other oil lamps each positioned at North, South, East, West, Northeast, Southeast, Southwest, and Northwest all outside the frame of the alter. They had created a beautiful mandala both on the inside of the alter and on the outside of the alter. The mandala was made from various type of spices and rice. There were the colors of burgundy, light green, light orange, browns, and white which formed this beautiful tapestry which would be destroyed at the end of the evening. Placed around the alter were offering of food and flowers.

Across from the alter were three musicians. One man played a string instrument with a clay pot as the body of the instrument, one man played the cymbals, and there was one female singer.

On the perimeter of the courtyard was a small temple and other small out buildings.

We arrived just as they were beginning the ritual. A procession of about twenty five to thirty people forming a long single line departed in front of us. I am guessing that this long single line forms the snake ritual. Soon the procession returned and passed directly in front of us. It was led a man playing a violin type instrument. He was followed by other men carrying cymbals, bells, and other ritual articles and symbols. The men were followed by the women who carried food offerings and small oil lamps, they were followed by the girls who also carried food offerings and small oil lamps. There was one man and two women who had gone into a trance and they too walked with the procession. The man in the trance was supported and assisted by two other men as were the two women in the trance supported and assisted by women.

The procession weaved its way first passing clockwise around the temple then around a small building, then into the small courtyard passing again clockwise around the altar then past the musicians. They then exited the small courtyard, passing again in front of us to complete the circle they were to walk again and again.

I don't know at what point the two women came out of their trance but the man remained in his trance much longer. They stopped in front of the alter while the others attempted to bring him out of his trance. He carried this curved stick that he placed behind his neck and held the two ends with each hand. He would sway back and forth raising his hands and the curved stick overhead and wave his arms from side to side. At one point he dropped the curved stick and began to violently run his hands through his hair and at another he became violent and swung his arms attempting to resist the help from the others. Eventually he passed out and was carried away and was laid down on the steps of that small out building. There was another man dressed in red who wore a large arrangement of bells around his waist and carried what looked like a large metal staff. He would jump up and down and twirl his staff and shout unrecognizable phrases. He too became tranced and later passed out and was carried off to recover.

After each of the tranced individuals came back to their normal self a series of dances were performed around the alter. A group of men and a larger group of younger boys performed a dance later followed by a man who performed a series fire dances. The ritual then settled down to listen to some traditional music. At the request of C.A., I was asked to record one particular song which I did.

Our group was invited to dinner but only Heather and I accepted. Much like at the Swami's in Trivandrum, we were sat at the head of the table. As always the food was delicious. They asked both of us if we would like spoons but we opted to eat with our fingers much to the delight of our hosts.

I hope my descriptions of the snake ritual was sufficient to give you a visual of the event. I am so grateful that they allowed me to record the event. I am still in a bit of a shock that we were the first Westerners every to watch this ritual. Thank you Mr. C.A. Menon for a remarkable evening.

Tomorrow we depart Thrissur for Mumbai on a 20 hour overnight train ride. Could there possibly be something to write about in that?